Dalma

The Naxal-affected dense forests of the Dalma hills near Jamshedpur, Jharkhand is not the place for the weak-hearted. The threats are serious but if you're careful enough and leave the rest to the powers-that-be to take care of, this is a spot for adventure enthusiasts. The jungles of the Chhota Nagpur plateau (that's where the Dalma Wildlife Reserve is located) are believed to be dating back to the time when the world comprised just one continent. The forests are so dense that visibility reduces to just about 15 feet. Some of the tribals in this area are said to be so primitive that they still live a Stone Age-like existence.


I've wanted to go to Dalma since my first trip to Jamshedpur in 2006. I had heard of how wild elephants from there had once come down to the 500-acre Jubilee Park in the heart of Jamshedpur. They had tried to shake the statue of Jamshedji Nusserwanji Tata at one end of the park. I had heard people mention Dalma during their conversations - of how jittery forest officials prevented unsuspecting tourists from travelling to Dalma before any adivasi festivals fearing that it would escalate poaching and kidnapping activities. I had even learnt from a forest officer of how they were caught between the tribals who wanted to preserve their primitive culture and ways of hunting and the interests of endangered wild animals. The department would allow the poaching of deer to safeguard the interests of larger species such as elephants and panthers.


When Jayajit Mullick, owner of the Hill View Resort (about 16 km from Jamshedpur) at the base of the Dalma hills, offered me a ride through the forest, I was more than game for it. But my parents had their apprehensions. Dad's a government official and a prime Naxal target. Mullick suggested we take his private vehicle. "If you go in a battiwala car, you may have problems," he said.


As we winded up steep hills in a Mahindra Scorpio (thankfully, there was no vehicle coming from the other side), I removed my camera to take some pictures of the view below. A few monkeys, lots of birds. I couldn't see too far because of the smoke. Smoke? On a mountain? Well, one of the tricks used by inhabitants to keep bears and elephants from straying onto the road. The forests were dense but quiet. In the cities, a little bit of greenery is marked by the chirping of birds. In the forests of Dalma, even the birds 'keep it down'. The drive from the bottom of the hill to the peak is around 20 kilometres and passes through several tribal villages. It takes about an hour and a half to navigate up to the top, if you're lucky to have no elephants in your way (there have been cases where people have been stranded for up to six hours thanks to frisky tuskers blocking the road).


I didn't see any elephants. Yes, I was disappointed. I happened to see some black-faced baboons aka hanuman (I later found other members of the same species on my neighbours roof in Vadodara) and huge snake-pits along the side of the road. I guess that was the closest I got to the wildlife.

Atop the hill is the forest department's shabby guesthouse that offers almost no comfort other than offering you a glass of water and some chai and biscuits.


Those looking for a little more adventure head to the Shiva Temple nearby. The 80-year-old temple resembles what's often described as a 'khandar' in Bollywood films. It has an eerie feel to it with cobras slithering around (with snake-charmers in tow) the stone edifice and doped sadhus singing bhajans. The Shivlinga is housed in a cave and sees throngs of devotees during Mahashivratri.


While the temple's hardly attractive, the view from the top is sure breathtaking - I saw the whole of Jamshedpur, Chandil Dam and Dimna Lake.


And while I soaked in the aroma of hot bhajiyas , I curiously watched this sign offering dhoklas and batata-puris. Talking of globalisation, are we?


The article was re-edited and published in Mumbai Mirror. This is what it reads like

WILD ENCOUNTER

Dangerous beasts, primitive tribes and visibility of just 15 feet – the Dalma Wildlife Reserve in Jharkhand is certainly for adrenalin junkies

Eisha Sarkar

The Naxal-affected dense forests of the Dalma hills near Jamshedpur, Jharkhand are not for the weak-hearted. The threats are serious but if you are careful enough and leave the rest to the powers-that-be, this is the place for adventure enthusiasts.

Back to the Stone Age: The jungles of the Chhota Nagpur plateau (that's where the 192 square kilometre-Dalma Wildlife Reserve is located) are believed to be dating back to the time when the world comprised just one continent. The forests are so dense that visibility reduces to just about 15 feet. Some of the tribes in this area still follow Stone Age rituals.

Jungle tales: Note that elephants here are wild. They're definitely not 'cute', so please keep a safe distance if you happen to see one. The adivasis talk a lot about how a tusker hurled a log at a jeep and sent it crashing down the slope. Yes, there are tales but not all are untrue. Jayjit Mullick, owner of Hill View Resort at the base of the hills says, "There have been cases where an elephant had blocked the road and people had to wait for over five hours to actually be able to move. The road is very narrow, so if something comes in your way, you will not be able to do a turnaround. That’s really some experience!"

People of Jamshedpur remember well how, a few years ago, wild elephants from the Dalma hills had come down to Jubilee Park in Jamshedpur. They had unsuccessfully tried to move the statue of J N Tata at the park.

Jittery forest officials: Forest officials prevent unsuspecting tourists from travelling to Dalma before any adivasi festivals fearing that it may escalate poaching and kidnapping activities. There are several tribal villages such as Konkadasa, Chimti, Bota and Randoh in the reserve. A forest officer said that officials are often caught between the interests of the tribals (who wanted to preserve their primitive culture and ways of hunting) and those of endangered wild animals. Somewhere, there is a trade-off. Officials say they allow poaching of deer to prevent the killing of elephants and panthers.

What you find: With some luck, you can see elephants, black-faced baboons, panthers, bears, deer, sloth bears, snakes, a very large variety of tropical birds and uncommon deciduous plants.

Fire on the mountain… Come sundown and the villagers light small fires along the road that leads to the top of the hills to 'smoke out' beasts, especially bears that are particularly dangerous.

Of snake charmers and sadhus: While the forest department's shabby guesthouse near the stop of the hill offers for a good view, you can go right upto the Shiv Temple at the peak for a complete view of Jamshedpur and Chandil Dam.

The 80-year-old temple resembles what's often described as a 'khandar' in Bollywood films. It has an eerie feel to it with cobras slithering around (with snake charmers in tow) the stone edifice and sadhus swaying to bhajans.

And if that's not weird enough, the thought of having batata puris and dhoklas at this remote temple in Jharkhand sure is!

Getting there
The Dalma hills, north of the River Subarnarekha, are 13 kilometres from Jamshedpur. The distance from the base to the Shiva Temple on top is 18 kilometres. It's a difficult drive along an unmetalled road so you need a really sturdy car.